I left Dubai- just as I was getting comfortable (which is an easy thing to do in Dubai)- and flew to Amman, Jordan. I'll admit, the flight this time was much less traumatic than my initial trip on Emirates- I'm here now, and I'm a bit more used to being a minority here. I feel like I'm adjusting well. Everything feels pretty normal- gotta say, Seattle, and even Bellevue, really do have enough of an international presence that for all intents I feel like in some small way I haven't even left... that, and everyone so far speaks very good english.
Had to take a cab to a hotel to meet my driver that I've hired for my stay in Jordan, and my trip to Damascus- his name is Yahya, Dan used him when he travelled here a few years ago, and he's been incredibly kind, accomodating, and patient. I'm very greatful to have such tremendous help.
We drove past Amman, stopped at a church in a small suburb of Amman (M-something) and onward toward Mt. Nebo - a historically significant place seemingly regardless of one's religion... something to do with Moses, I can't remember- that's bad, I know-the view is really incredible, breath-taking even. The terrain around seemingly all of western Jordan is rather mountainous, sort of like Arizona, but the color of the geology is much whiter, with splashes of orange in some places; bright deep reds in others (farther south-I'll get to that). Despite how arid it appears, there are very large patches of bright green fields around Amman, many little farms, and olive trees. Back to Mt Nebo- there's a tent where a couple of giant mosaics are on desplay on the floor. Very pretty.
From the top of Mt Nebo you travel downward - way, way down- and into the Dead Sea basin (passing a few military checkpoints along the way- politics in action-nothing to fear). The Dead Sea area is really quite a popular resort area: Because it's 1200 meters below sea level (and it's the Middle East), it's always warm (it's quite cool around here otherwise- glad I brought an extra jacket). We stopped at a public pool and beach on the sea, and I took the plunge! The salinity of the world's oceans are like 7 parts per billion (or million?): The Dead Sea is 5 times that, 35 parts per (whatever- my chemistry is leaving me). So you just kick your feet up, and you bob like a cork. I was cautious about bringing my cameras in with me, but it really wasn't a problem. And I stayed in the shallows. Really interesting- as you're wading in you notice thin shelves of white stuff under your feet mixed in the sand- it's salt that's collected over years (or maybe minutes...). Because the Jordan River has been siphoned off by the "Occupied Territory," as well as farmland within Jordan, the Dead Sea is actually sinking (or rather evaporating), having dropped an entire meter in the last year. The salinity therefore is increasing. Feels like you're covered in a thin layer of grease. The air is good though, not briney or anything at all. And the water is refreshing- even a little sharp at first- but altogether pretty mild.
We drove along the shore of the Dead Sea on our way up to Petra- the drive reminded me of a drive along the Columbia river gorge- incredible jagged cliffs. Deep red color. Then you go up- way up, nearly 3000 meters according to Yahya (-1200, then up to +1500m). I'll check that. Arrived in Petra at night- so couldn't see much, but the drive reminded me of a winding mountain drive I took with my family on the way to Bend one time- twisting and turning through tiny little towns.
I'll admit, the jetlag is still hanging onto me, so I was still incredibly tired when we arrived at my hotel/hostel; that combined with an underlying caution that probably will never dissolve completely, and perhaps I did come off as a little... cold maybe, around here. The staff- two young guys, one my age, the other maybe 20, tried really hard to loosen me up. They're very kind. Almost too kind for a tired, wired American at first- I couldn't tell if they were messing with me or not... I can't say the place is the greatest I've ever stayed. I'll just say you get what you pay for (though I'll add a bit more, in terms of character and hospitality). That said, the bed was actually very comfortable; and besides, it's just a place to lay my weary head. I'm here for much more important things than sleep.
That's all for now- no internet for my own computer, I'm using the communal one in the lobby, so pictures are pending.
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